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A culè defender hard at work |
More than
half of the 1,800 or so residents of my town are youth or children, so there is
almost always someone playing some kind of game. Traditional sports are often
in action for kids, teenagers and adults. Soccer, of course, is huge (this
being Latin America, after all) with several fields of various size and
condition in use during long stretches of the day. Soccer is played – usually
barefoot, except for the odd gringo that doesn’t feel like stepping on a sharp
rock or shard of glass – in the concrete micro-cancha (“mini field”) and in at
least three large dirt patches in the hot sun and in the pouring rain, the sand
and gravel turning into thick mud and in the street. Baseball also happens in
one of the fields, known as the “softball field” for where town men
occasionally play softball on Sunday afternoons in beer-soaked matches with
other Afro-Colombian community teams. Some of my neighborhood students even got
hold of real tennis rackets and a few balls and convert the sandlot next to my
house into a dirt tennis court for a few hours each day, placing a long stick
on two logs for a makeshift net structure (minus the actual net) and scratching
boundaries in the hard sand. (Tennis is currently on pause this week as the
last ball got destroyed between zealous smacks and being left in the rain.)
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Makeshift tennis court |
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Playing some island tennis |
Board games
and the like are also often underway. Dominos can be found being slapped down
on many tables through town by kids, teens and adults, replete with
smack-talking regardless of age (usually much less of it happening at tables
with females than at male-dominated tables). The basic version is how it is
played – four players with seven dominos each, the goal being to match number
ends until one player successful disposes of all his dominos and wins. Betting
often occurs with adult males playing for 5,000 pesos per hand (about US$2.50)
with players rotating in and out depending on who wins and who loses. Losing
players – as identified either by number of dominos remaining in their hand at
the end of the round or, in cases of equal number of dominos in the hands of
multiple players, the higher tallied number of dots on their dominoes – not
only lose the money they bet but also have to buy a round of beer for the other
players. Highly skilled gents who have a lucky day at the table can drink all
day long without paying for their beer and also making some extra spending
money (which will mostly be spent buying beer when they wind up having an
unlucky day at the domino table or continue drinking after play ceases and the
dominos are put away). And though kids don’t always gamble, it is not uncommon
to see them play for coins and earn or lose some of their snack money while
adult women idle away their time playing a dice board game for change.
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Playing some bones (though they just call it Dòmino) |
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Dominoes |
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A betting game during the week of the town festivities - place a coin on a number (or on the line connecting numbers) and win or lose depending on the roll of a die |
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Placing some bets, winning and losing snack money |
Marbles come
and go throughout the year, with the intensity of a fever. Play is for keeps
and these kids have no mercy, having personally made several trips from a game
to a nearby corner store to buy marbles for about 50 pesos each as I kept
losing, the winners “killing” my marbles and adding them to their soda bottles
full of marbles won through fierce play.
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A homemade mini-billiard table |
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Some of my neighbors having a fun time |
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A group of teenagers entertaining themselves training their fighting cocks |
Where I’m
most impressed is when kids make up their own games or have traditional games
that require little or no materials. One of my students taught me a game that
involves throwing two coins against a wall with the aim of the coins landing on
the ground separated by a distance commensurate to that between their thumb and
pinky when the hand is fully spread. The player who gets closest to having
their coins land that distance wins the round. Any two kids can play it
together as long as they have two coins and a decent wall to use.
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My student Brayan throwing a couple of coins against the wall |
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Two coins on the floor about a handful apart - a pretty good throw. |
Another
game – “palitos,” or little sticks – is a kind of a low-tech Operation, played with just a handful of
popsicle sticks (anywhere from 10 to 20 of them). To start the sticks are
gently tossed in the air an inch or two to land on the table or school desk
underneath. The player then chooses one
loose popsicle stick and uses it to slowly and carefully move another popsicle
stick without shifting any others, repeating the process until they
accidentally move an unintended popsicle stick (like getting shocked in Operation). Adding up the number of
sticks successfully moved, the next player throws the sticks to start his or
her turn with the aim of surpassing the highest number achieved. Purchase a
small bag of popsicle sticks and you can easily be on your way, either
competing against a friend or practicing solo.
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Playing palitos as school before class starts |
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Trying to get the sticks free without disturbing the others |
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One stick removed! |
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Making progress in a round of palitos |
The current
town favorite is a game called Culé
(sounding like “cool LAY”), played with nothing other than a plastic cup of
juice, a small chair to set the cup on, and a ball anywhere between the size of
a small soccer ball or a full-sized soccer ball. Said ball can be either
completely flat or fully inflated – it simply doesn’t matter as the ball is not
intended to bounce. I have seen the game played with anywhere from 6 players to
around 15 players. Divided into two teams, one team is on offense and one team
on defense (my own terms). Defense guards the cup of juice with the ball while
the offense tries to grab the cup and drink all of the juice before getting hit
with the ball as thrown by a defending player. If an offense player is hit with
the ball (usually from an accurate strike or getting tagged in “Monkey in the
middle”-like coordination between two or
more defenders) he or she is “burned” (quemado)
and out of play. Play continues – even if the juice is gradually decreasing by sipping offensive players
–until either all of the offensive players are “burned” or the cup is
completely emptied and the successful offensive player finishes the last drop
without getting “burned” and yells “Culé.”
With each round the two teams alternate between offense and defense with
neither team concerned about keeping track of the score. It’s an exciting game
to watch and it’s really great to see a bunch of kids having a ton of fun
playing a game that requires no investment other than a packet of Frutiño or SunTea (a mere 500 pesos and
800 pesos, respectively) to make a pitcher of juice.
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A cup of juice on a chair before a game of culè |
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Attacking and defending!!! |
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The classic "monkey in the middle" defense approach in action as an offendsive player takes off |
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Going for the cup while the defense recovers the ball!!! |
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Time to drink some juice and switch sides |
Cule looks like a lot of fun - diving at juice in your ropa interior on a hot day.
ReplyDeleteYou know, these topics could easily become part of a book (i.e. on play) or based on the island culture if/when you go for an Anthro degree or whatever pulls you towards it.